The 23 or so people crammed together in the hut kept the place toasty, even long after the fire died down. I was the first to wake, shortly before 6am, and attempted to shuffle off my bunk in silence to make a coffee. A wooden roof beam, however, had other plans and snuck up on my head with a bang as I crawled towards the ladder.
My skull pleased the hut is apparently made of balsa wood, I got my deck coffee and admired the orange scorched scenery as the sun rose. A somewhat weakened version of the wind remained, cancelling the solar warmth.
From Oturere Hut, the Northern Circuit route continues across dark sand desert plains, dipping in and out of the various eastern valleys of Ngāuruhoe. Each one is different, in steepness, stream size and appearance. The last one, in particular, features a thick beech forest and a raging tributary of the Waihohonu Stream.
Over the ridge and down the next slope, I arrived at the busy and lavish Waihohonu Hut. Scores of trampers were setting off, while a family was just returning to base after a day walk. Some of my new friends from Oturere were enjoying morning tea on the spacious, sun-lashed deck. Laura, who was walking the track with her father and his tramping buddies, offered me a wrap and some fresh veges. I jumped at the offer. I had enough food to make Whakapapa, but it was going to be close, due to the extra day from Tūrangi. Laura's bonus lunch meant I could have an additional Oreo break slotted into the day.
Food logistics is a massive part of thru-adventuring. You've got to carry just the right amount of meals + 1, just the right amount of snacks + 1 and just the right amount of +1s. You then need to be an expert at rationing. Only personal experience with your need and greed can make you an expert at rationing. I'm fairly terrible at it.
The Northern Circuit turns west after Waihohonu Hut, following a junction where it meets the Round The Mountain Track, the Ruapehu ring route. A small side quest introduces trampers to the old Waihohonu Hut. Opened in 1904, an info sign says it was initially used as accommodation for weary travellers between Auckland and Wellington. The opening of the train line several years later reduced demand, it says, until the rise of skiing saw a bump in visitors to the area again. Both the male and female quarters remain intact and visitors can enter the property for a glimpse of early 20th Century hut life. Luxurious it ain't.
A gentle climb up tussock lands follows, with the jagged Ruapehu to the left, while the near-perfect conical Ngāuruhoe sits on the right: incredible surroundings. The well-formed track consistently rises, dropping altitude only to cross the numerous streams that run down from Saddle Cone. Up on the flats next to Lower Tama Lake - which was more of a dried mud basin at this time of year - the track begins its descent towards Whakapapa. Day hikers from the village became a feature, some heading back from the Tama Lakes, others on their way up.
A huge part of my day, and indeed the day before, had been taken up by the need to constantly tighten the slipping straps on my ULA Epic pack. There hasn't been much hiking in the three days on water around Taupō, plus the two in Tūrangi awaiting pole delivery, so I'd either forgotten about the strap slippage, or it was getting worse. With such a monster load on my back, it was essential the pack was well fitting at all times. In terms of solutions online, I've seen one person recommend tree sap (!) on the slippery, offending strap, while another talked of a legendary, professional hiker who just put up with it for an entire walk. Any ideas from you?
The final landmark, if doing the Northern Circuit clockwise, is the Taranaki Falls. Gushing through a single spout at the clifftop, crystal blue water falls twenty metres down to a neat, round pool. Spectators can stand in the spray, or clamber to the rear of the falls and enjoy the spectacle from behind. I popped the last Oreo in my mouth and enjoyed the show, front and centre.
Of the two tracks on offer after the falls, I opted for the lower one, which crosses a bridge next to a huge, spectacular and noisy drop in the river. Another beech forest follows as the track winds its way along the river bank, before a short climb and out through the bush into Whakapapa proper. The Northern Circuit was complete, but I am definitely going to return for a re-run someday!
The signs and Kiwi popular tongue all point one towards the glamorous Chateau Tongariro, but my budget doesn't stretch that far. Upon recommendation, I was booked at the Skotel at a fraction of the price. My double, non-suite room is comfy and clean for $65, but the real surprise comes in the dinner menu: vegan options inhabit the mains section and I need no encouragement to book a table for dinner.
After a late afternoon lie down, the first such comfort in more than two weeks, I made my way to dinner. There, I ran into Laura and crew and they invited me to join their table. Beers, burger and banana split consumed, the food was honestly great. My new friends and I exchanged tramping stories around the table. They even offered me a ride to National Park the next day. I was catching the 1pm bus back to Auckland to attend a wedding, so a lift would help cut stress. Of course, by morning I was determined to keep walking, so declined their kind offer. It was a decision that would set up for a heck of a morning the next day...
Kia ora and thanks for keeping up with this adventure! The Waka & Waewae Journey is raising money for the Mental Health Foundation, Cancer Society and UNICEF's Ukraine appeal. I'd appreciate it if you're able to donate or simply share my Givealittle fundraiser with your circles. Ngā mihi nui!