A trip back in time up the Wangapeka Valley
An old gold miner's hut, a pair of whiowhio and a tranquil time in paradise.
Kia ora!
It’s a sunny, summer Sunday and I’m writing this from the luxury of King’s Creek Hut, in Kahurangi National Park (even though I won’t get to send it until Tuesday!). Situated near a creek named after Cecil King – a gold prospector who established a claim on the area during the 30s’ depression - the hut is a snazzy 1970s affair, with 20 bunks, two bedrooms, large multifuel stove and, erm, windows. Couldn’t think what else to put there, since it doesn’t even have a kitchen sink or water tank. Stayers can collect water from the creek or the nearby Wangapeka River.
Just five minutes up river is the real gem in these parts: Cecil King’s Hut. Built between 1934-35, and restored in 1991, an info-board inside tells how Cecil built the hut from a single red beech and planted another beech beside the hut as a replacement. Old mining tools are on display, beside four bunks, a generous fireplace, a cooking area and wood store. Its clean, liveability and smoke-flavoured cosiness are a reminder not to judge a book by its cover, as I had done prior to my first visit to this place. It’s a beautiful relic.
On Saturday night, we shared the larger hut with a solo tramper from Wellington, who was near to completing the Wangapeka Track. He said he was turning 70 soon - on ya, pal. This morning, a trout fisherman who’d stayed at Cecil’s Place, stopped in on his way back to the road. He told me how he’d always been going there, since he was a kid, so had just carried on. According to the info-board, as the Wangapeka Track grew in popularity throughout the 60s and 70s and Cecil became a “well-known trail identity”, often offering trampers a brew and a chat. He would also leave the place open for others to use when he wasn’t there.
The same policy applies today: Cecil King’s Hut is open to you to stay and the price hasn’t risen one cent. It’s free!
After writing the above, I closed my laptop, stepped out the hut, walked the five minutes back over to Cecil’s Place, clambered down to the river and sidled up its true right for about 200 metres to ‘the forks’, where the two branches of the Wangapeka meet. Stood by a deep swimming hole, I heard an evil sounding growl. I looked around, startled, only to spot a pair of whiowhio (blue ducks) swimming up the river. This true wilderness spot really has it all!
To get there, follow the Wangapeka Track west from Rolling Junction, near Siberia Flat campsite, for about four hours.
That looks absolutely beautiful